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The Chaumiere en L'ile - Tends to get a lot of tourists
because of it's location at the tip of the Ile St Louis, but their
duck reigns supreme. There's a Berthillon next door, but if you're
tempted, don't go there....take a little stroll to walk off your
meal down the Rue St. Louis and make a left toward the last bridge.
There you will find another Berthillon. Get the Glace Chocolat
Blanc with hot fudge and chantilly, and after your meal of confit de
carnard, you're certain to think you died and went to heaven!
Le Petit Prince:
I eat pretty frequently at a placed called Le Petit Prince, in the
5th (12 rue Lanneau) and one of the reasons is their escargot.
Always fresh and not overcooked (I think over cooking makes it taste
like chicken liver), it's smothered in butter and garlic, and no one
passes judgment if you completely clean the plate soaking up the
last drop of butter with your bread. The place is very gay, but the
clientele is very mixed. Around 40Euro p/p will get you a nice
meal. I have 5 restaurants in Paris that I consider staples, and
this is one of them. The clientele is very mixed, but the
restaurant is widely advertised in gay publications and guides. You
will see gay couples and groups, but except to the astute observer,
one would never know it's a "gay" place. The food and service
transcend the boundaries. If you decide to try it out, I strongly
advise making a reservation. I have been able to squeeze myself in
on numerous occasions, but I think that's because I'm frequently
there alone. A party of 4 or more would definitely need advance
reservations. Tel: 033 01 43 54 77 26. Only open for dinner
starting at 19h30.
The Rotisserie du Beaujeaulais: Located on the left
bank just across from the Ile St Louis, is one of my all time
favorites. Owned by the folks who own and run the Tour d'Argent,
(which is just across the street), the food is absolutely superb,
and although the duck is not the creme de la creme, (that's saved
for its big sister next door), it comes from the same farm, and by
all accounts is still some of the best out there. If you're a duck
fan, and don't want to pay the price to eat at La Tour, pop on into
the R du B and enjoy an incredibly good meal. The warmed goat
cheese salad is to-die, and, as mentioned, the Confit de Carnard is
some of the best on the left bank. There is a small alcove just to
the left of the entry door, behind the coat rack, that offers
incredible privacy from the main restaurant, but puts you in a
fish-bowl, great for people watching and views of the Iles St. Louis
and de la Cite. I have dined at this restaurant maybe 30 times, and
have never had a bad meal. Despite it's locale in the heart of
tourist central, it is frequented regularly by Parisians. Prices
are moderate to expensive, around 40 EURO pp with a good bottle of
shared wine.
La Coupole: One of Paris' most
famous brasseries, La Couple was the frequent home of Josephine Baker, and
touted famous regulars like Hemingway. Once the premiere venue for
Jazz, it is still considered one of the best people-watching establishments
in the city. Enjoy an evening of cocktails at their enormous bar.
La Coupole
102, Blvd du Montparnasse, (14th). Metro: Vavin |
L'Entrecote: Yes, the lines are long and it's a tourist
haven, but there's nothing like it. 25 bucks for their walnut
topped salad, the very best ribeye around (all you can eat) drenched
in their "fameuse sauce" (primarily dijon, garlic and butter), frites
allumettes (worth the price of the meal alone), and a tempting
little choice of dessert. A bottle of wine (cuvee entrecote) is
about $10 more. I prefer the one off the Ave des Grandes Armee
(Closed for the month of July).
The one in Pigalle has a broader menu (good for lunch, next door to
the Moulin Rouge) and the one near the Gare St. Lazarre also has
roasted chicken and a few other items. (This one, however, gets
tons of tour groups...I avoid it). Pizza Cotti
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13 rue Odessa, (14th)
Very inexpensive, pretty much all locals, and the Cannelloni al
Forno with its rich cream sauce served bubbling hot and crispy right
out of the oven is to die!! When I was but an impoverished flight
attendant in the 80's, it was the best thing going. Around 20 bucks
for a 3 course prix fixe. Now that I can afford a little better,
it's still a regular stop. They have a large menu that will satisfy
anyone in your party. Order a pichet of their house red, and don't
miss the profiteroles or the mousse au chocolat.
Dessert:
Bertillon at 31, rue
St-Louis-en-l'Ile. Enjoy the very best ice cream Paris has to offer.
My favorite is the Chocolat Blanc.
L'Alsaco:
Alsatian restaurant located at 10 rue Condorcet (in the 9th but
quite close to Montmartre) Incredible value, less than 50 Euros for
two including an entrée (enormous) a main dish (also enormous) and
wine. Choices include local specialties like pork, sausages, Tarte
flambée, Tarte à l'oignon, and cabbage. My "entrée" (charcuterie
alsacienne) was a full meal of its own.
The cafeteria of Musée Guimet serves Thai/Asian dishes.
Nothing very fancy but a nice alternative in an area not known for
its cheap restaurants.
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Discover Paris Jazz:
Le Petit
Journal Montparnasse 13, rue du Commandant-René-Mouchotte
(14th arr.) Métro: Gaîté, Montparnasse-Bienvenüe.
Reservations: 01.43.21.56.70. This place is always hopping.
Located next to the Meridien Hotel and across from the Gare Montparnasse,
you'll enjoy an evening of live music and roaring fun. La Coupole: One of Paris' most
famous brasseries, La Couple was the frequent home of Josephine Baker, and
touted famous regulars like Hemingway. Once the premiere venue for
Jazz, it is still considered one of the best people-watching establishments
in the city. Enjoy an evening of cocktails at their enormous bar.
La Coupole
102, Blvd du Montparnasse, (14th). Metro: Vavin |
